Walking Paw-Lightly On Leash
It's important to me to teach dogs without causing them pain. So, by experimentation and experience and help, we've come up with a few gentle methods to teach a dog NOT to pull on a leash.
Before beginning, we must think about what a leash means to an untutored dog: a rope tied to her collar which allows her to pull her owner wherever she - the dog - wants to go. We, of course, would like the dog to see the leash as a rope that allows us to keep her by our side. Unfortunately, that takes some doing. So here are a few methods to try. At least one should suit your training style and your dog's learning style.
METHOD ONE
The Double Leash Method
I usually begin with a young puppy, but this can be done with an older dog, as long as you apply it consistently.
There are three essential ingredients. Lots of soft, easily broken up treats, a regular 6-foot leash and a long line (20-30 feet). The line should be light, but does not have to be an "Official" long-line. Nylon cording works just fine, especially with knots every three feet or so.
I begin by teaching the dog that being close to me is always rewarding. When she comes to me voluntarily, she gets praise, pets, attention and a treat or two. Often I'll drop several small treats on the ground, to make the area around me even more attractive. But I'm not consistent about where the treats come from - sometimes from my hand (when she sits), other times from the ground.
I then put the long-line on, but not the regular leash. She should get used to dragging the line; sometimes dogs find it disconcerting for awhile. I want her to disregard it. This usually takes a few minutes.
When I begin to walk, she'll start to walk ahead of me. When she gets to a point beyond which I do not want her to be, I give her one gentle word - could be "wait" or "stop"...doesn't really matter, as long as it's the same one. And I step on the leash. She abruptly halts; I call her name and begin walking in another direction - not necessarily back the way I came. Most dogs very quickly catch up and begin walking with me. They get rewarded (I usually stop and reward, but sometimes I don't) and we go on. When she pulls ahead again, I do the same. Many many times.
After I've got her keeping an eye on me all the time, I add the normal leash, and hold it VERY LIGHTLY and quite loose. So loose that it will slip through my hand if the dog pulls and I don't step on the trailing leash. We do the same exercise as before, using the stop or wait cue, and NOT PULLING ON THE REGULAR LEASH AT ALL. That leash should be there for looks and the law only, not for correcting. This is very important, since dogs easily learn that pulling the leash forces you to go with them. I don't want my dog to learn that.
I go through the same procedure I did before (by now the word "stop" or "wait" is enough to stop the dog). As I turn and walk in the other direction, and she walks by me, I cue her with the words "walk with me" (or - if you wish "heel.") I twist and turn and go in many different directions, often stopping and rewarding. Always I keep my hands so loosely on the leash that she gets NO cues from the leash, only from watching my body.
Now I take off the dragging leash, and my dog walks beside me. If she doesn't, it goes back on and the training resumes!
I try to remember always - I'm the leader - she's the follower. It's the only way it'll work!
METHOD TWO
Attention Walk
I begin with the dog sitting directly in front of me; treats in my hand, leash very loosely held or tied to my waist. I take a step or two backwards, the dog follows. I stop, she sits. I say "Yes" (marker word for correct behavior) and give her a treat.
I do this several times, making sure I don't bump into something as I walk backwards! Now I begin to extend the behavior, walking back for several feet before I stop and reward.
After she's got this (it takes maybe 4 minutes!), I begin to teach her to walk beside me by beginning the behavior - walking backwards, then abruptly walking INTO my dog, pushing her gently to my left side. I take three for four steps, stop, she sits beside me, rather than in front and I say "Yes!" and treat.
I extend the behavior, each time making her go further and further with me by her side. If she begins to forge ahead, I quickly step backwards, she follows, I move into her again, stop, sit, YES!
I add the cue. As we begin walking, I say "walk with me," thus telling her what's she is doing right!
METHOD THREE
We aren't going that way!
This method does not use treats, which makes it very appealing to some. However, it's very easy to make this a painful procedure, if the dog has the wrong kind of collar, or you end up jerking the dog back to you. So be careful!
I hold the dog's leash very loosely, giving her about three to four feet of slack. My hands are held tightly against my abdomen or chest to avoid giving the dog any cues. I want her to watch me.
We begin walking, with her by my side. The walking itself is the reinforcement - the part she enjoys.
The instant she begins to step ahead of me, I say "oops" or "uh-uh" (again, mild but consistent!), and take off in another direction - any direction except the one we were going in. When she catches up, I praise her and we keep going.
Repeat as necessary. Add the cue when the behavior becomes reliable.
With any method, it's extremely important to remember that the dog needs to learn to look at you (remember her two jobs - to watch you and to keep and eye on you!) You cannot force that; it must come because you are being unpredictable. I call it being predictably unpredictable, because the dog knows you are likely to change directions or even disappear without much notice, and it's her job to make sure you don't.
© Marin Humane Society Animal Behavior & Training, T.King, all rights reserved. Used with permission.
